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Tractor Drive Test for Water Pump

Bret Weikert was heading out on the Tractor Relay Across Nebraska but before he left he needed a new water pump for his Farmall M. Bret spoke with our tech Dennis and he sold  him on our newly designed IHS189. After completing the 9 day, 500 mile drive Bret emailed us with his story and pictures.

Just a recap I purchased one of your newly redesigned water pumps for a Farmall M. It has worked flawlessly with no leaks or issues. It was very easy to install even with the radiator still in place. Took my dad and I around 45 minutes. No complaints here and I may have even sold a few other guys on our tractor drive on purchasing them from you too.

The ride I went on was the Tractor Relay Across Nebraska. It was 9 days and somewhere between 400-500 miles long. Steiner was a sponsor for part of the ride and I thank you for that sponsorship. We also raise money for Operation Comfort Warriors along our trip and that is something the relay has been doing for 4 or 5 years now.

For more information you can check out the club’s Facebook page.

1958 Oliver 770

I got this 1958 Oliver 770 a year ago. It was in rough shape and didn’t run. I had to pull it for two miles with my pickup just to get somewhere to load it. Got it home and got it running just to find the ring gear was out of it. It has been a rough job with a lot of help from my friend Kirk, but it runs good now. I plan to use the tractor to plow snow and brush hog. Now the Oliver’s main job is taking two year old twins my wife babysits on rides. They really like it!

Ely Morris
Bedford, Pennsylvania

Father and Son Restoration of Oliver Row Crop

This is my newly restored 1951 Oliver Row Crop 77. The Oliver 77 was the first tractor my Dad and I each drove as kids on the farm. So naturally we restored this one together. We did it over the summer of 2016. I learned so much from my Dad during the restoration. He’s had Olivers & Whites his whole life and is a walking encyclopedia of them. A few of the highlights of this 77 are power steering, dual hydraulics, and we custom fit flat top fenders from a 1650 to the 77 to add our own touch. We recently purchased an Oliver 770 to restore together, and can’t wait to get started. Father/son time doesn’t get any better!

Dathan Hiemstra
Beaver Dam, Wisconsin

Pictures of the restoration process.

This Oliver is Back on her Wheels

roger-fast-beforeThis is our 1954 Oliver 77 row crop. We pulled it out of the shed with hardly any usable rubber to pull it two miles home. We spent about two months getting it to run right.

This summer we started on restoring the sheet metal roger-fast-afterand eventually getting to the cast iron. We are missing the front panels hoping on finding two good ones plus a not so rusty rim. We are hoping on getting everything looking new again.

Roger Fast
Butterfield, Minnesota

1966 Oliver Stays Strong

Oliver-931667961966 Oliver 1850 with its “work clothes” on in Northwest Iowa after resting in the barn for the past 12 years. This picture is the day it was moved out of the barn and got a fresh battery and fuel and it started right up as if was just put in the barn the night before. The tractor has been in our family since bought new in 1966. Looking forward to restoring this tractor with my son and daughter someday back to the way it looked when it rolled on to the farm in 1966 and using it in local parades.

Jason Muller

On the Road with Rachel: Michigan’s Largest Tractor Show

Over the weekend I visited the Mid-Michigan Old Gas Tractor Association’s show in Oakley, Michigan. This show is the largest tractor show in Michigan.

All colors of tractors are welcome. Hundreds of tractors were on display. Here are a few highlights:

Everyone can appreciate a nice row of John Deere tractors–Dubuque built tractors as well as new generation tractors.


I think I saw more pulling tractors at this show than any other tractor show I’ve been to! I wish I could have seen more of them pull but due to my schedule I could only see a handful actually pull.


I can’t think of a single tractor brand that I didn’t see. Here are a few pictures of the less common brands:
Silver King

Eagle and Huber (commonly recognized Case and JD tractors between)


John Blue

IMG_7262 (1)
Chamberlain (a first for me)

A few people were droolling over this perfectly restored Farmall 400:


I had to chuckle at the exhaust on this tractor


and the ingenuity of the cab on this tractor.



It’s always fun to see harvesters like this mounted New Idea corn picker


and this combine in great original condition.


Shows are a great opportunity to also see the really old tractors operating, like this Rumley:



Below are a few more tractor pictures to enjoy:

IMG_7273 IMG_7272 IMG_7274
If you’re looking for a new show to attend, be sure to add this show to your list next August!

6 Volt to 12 Volt Conversion FAQs

6-12-volt-FAQsFrom the Steiner Tech Support line: 6 Volt to 12 Volt Conversion FAQs

Here are some of the most frequent questions we get about 12 volt conversions here at Steiner Tractor Parts. If you’re thinking about making the switch, here are some good tips:

  1. Why convert from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system? There are a few advantages to a 12 volt system – tractors that operate on 12 volts start faster and have brighter headlights. A 12 volt battery lasts longer than a 6 volt, and you can jump-start a 12 volt tractor with an ordinary vehicle. Switching to an alternator eliminates the need for a generator and voltage regulator, giving you a more reliable charging system.
  2. Is it a difficult project? Making the conversion isn’t incredibly difficult, but it’s not a project for a beginner, either. I would rate it as a moderate difficulty. In addition to basic mechanical skills, you also need to know the basics of electrical wiring. If you have the tools and knowledge to change a light fixture in your home (including stripping wires and using stake-ons properly), you’re ready.
  3. What parts do I need? A standard conversion will require an alternator, alternator bracket, battery, coil, wiring harness, and amp gauge. Replace the existing generator and voltage regulator with the alternator, and swap out the old battery, coil, wiring harness, and amp gauge with the new.
  4. When doing a 12 volt conversion, do I need a 12 volt starter? In my opinion, no. While some starter shops will sell you a “specially wound 12 volt starter” in my opinion there’s no reason or a big enough difference to warrant this expense. Your original (or replacement) 6 volt starter will function well on a 12 volt system.
  5. Do I have to change the wiring? Yes. Your old wiring will be set up for a field, an armature, voltage regulator, etc. Using these existing wires could be a fire hazard. Replace your wiring harness with a new one specific to your tractor to have a cleaner look and safer operation.
  6. Do I need to change the coil? Yes. The 12 volt coil upgrade is very important. I’ve seen some people try to place a resistor in front of their 6 volt coil–not a good idea. The resistor won’t suffice.
  7. When I do the 12 volt conversion, do I keep the voltage regulator? No. The voltage regulator needs to be removed when putting an alternator on.
  8. Can I just install an 8 volt battery on my 6 volt system? Yes you can. No changes are required. Many people choose this option.

Do you have videos available? Yes I do! If you are converting a Farmall tractor, you’re in luck! Here’s a link to a video I made on a Farmall tractor. Even though the demonstration model is a Farmall, though, the basic techniques are similar across all makes and models. If you’re looking for help on a different tractor, give a shout in the comments! I’m always happy to hear video ideas.

Tractor Quiz Answers

Earlier this week I challenged you to a quiz: can you recognize these tractors (make and model) without their color or decal?

Here are the answers. Kudos to Ryan Foster for being the first person to get nearly all of them correct!
Tractor #1: Ford 5000.Tractor1

Tractor #2: Cockshutt 20.Tractor2

Tractor #3: Ford 871 (give yourself a pat on the back if you got the select-o-speed or the gold color correct too!)


Tractor #4: Massey Harris 44 (with bonus points if you were able to tell / guess that it’s a special!)


Tractor #5: Moline 4 Star.


Tractor #6: John Deere 730 DieselTractor6

Tractor #7: Farmall MV.


Tractor #8: Case VAC. Tractor8

Tractor #9: Oliver Super 99 GM.Tractor9

Tractor # 10: Massey Ferguson 180


Tractor Quiz

Can you recognize these tractors (make and model) without their color or decal?


Give your answers in the comments below – and come back on Thursday for the results!
Tractor #1:

tractor 1


Tractor #2:

tractor 2


Tractor #3:

tractor 3


Tractor #4:

tractor 4


Tractor #5:

tractor 5


Tractor #6:

tractor 6


Tractor #7:

Tractor 7


Tractor #8:

Tractor 8


Tractor #9:

Tractor 9


Tractor #10:

Tractor 10

Do You Really Need a Manual?

It’s a common question: “Do I really need to own a manual for my tractor?” After all, manuals aren’t free (most cost around $20), and with all the information available online these days it seems a little old-school to buy one. Besides, who wants to read the directions! It seems like a lot more fun to dive in and figure things out along the way.

You’ve probably heard these arguments against manuals before – you might even say these things yourself! If so, I hope to convince you otherwise. You really do need a manual (or three) to go along with your tractor.


First, let me explain the three different types of manuals – then I’ll (hopefully!) convince you to buy one.

A shop manual (also known as a service manual) is made for mechanics. Each dealer’s service department would have a copy of the shop manual, which gave the mechanics the details they need to make repairs. If you are doing a major repair or restoration project, get one of these! It’s where you’ll find all the specifications you need to prevent a costly mistake and keep your tractor running perfectly. If you can only buy one manual, get this one.

An owner’s manual (also known as an operator’s manual) was given to each original buyer with their tractor. This is the basic manual, not unlike the manual you probably keep in the glovebox of your car. It’s where you’ll find information about how to make basic adjustments and regular maintenance on your tractor.

A parts manual is really fun to look at! It shows how all the parts in your tractor fit together, and gives the original part numbers for every piece in your tractor. Not only will using a parts manual make you a pro at ordering replacement parts for your tractor, it’s a real help if you disassemble something and can’t quite remember how to put it back together.

So, do you really need to buy one? Well, here are three reasons why:

  1. It’s hard to get this information somewhere else. I’m a huge fan of the internet, but not everything you read online is accurate and trustworthy – and some information just isn’t out there.
  2. It’s faster to own a manual. Consider the amount of time it can take to search for and find the answers you need (either online or by calling the Steiner tech department). Save yourself the time and frustration by putting the answers right at your fingertips.
  3. Mistakes can be costly. An incorrect guess on specs can be devastating to your tractor. Common mistake: over- or under-torquing a rod and having it pop through the side of your block.

My dad is an expert mechanic, and he has a whole wall of manuals. If our barn catches fire, that wall is what we’re running in to save (metaphorically speaking! Don’t run into a burning building, especially not one filled with gas and oil!) It’s the most important part of our shop.

If you are doing a repair on your tractor, lots of help is available for free on the internet (like my video tutorials). You can get even more help from the in-depth repair videos that my Dad makes. But nothing can replace the good old-fashioned manual