Case Archives - Page 3 of 10 - Antique Tractor Blog

Road Trip Destination: Case IH Factory Tour

10/03/2016 by RG Leave a Comment

Here’s a new road trip destination: a tour of the Case IH factory!

I visited the Case IH factory in Racine, Wisconsin when I was nearby at the Red Power Round-Up. What an adventure!

The Magnum Series Case IH tractors are manufactured at the Racine facility. Here’s a picture of me with our friendly and super-informative tour guide, Peter.

I visited the plant along with my friends Wild Bill (Bill Anderson), Victor, and my dad. We were able to take pictures outside of the plant, but once we passed through the visitor’s center and onto the factory floor pictures were no longer allowed.

Inside the plant, we got a firsthand look at the assembly line. It was really fun to see all the parts come together to form a brand new Case IH or New Holland tractor!

This tour is a great experience for both IH enthusiasts and the general public. You don’t have to be a big tractor person like I am to appreciate the tour, so bring all of your friends!

The best part about the tour: it’s absolutely FREE! Wow! Tours must be scheduled in advance, and visitors must be at least 14 years old.

My tour was at the Racine, Wisconsin facility. Tours are also available at the Grand Island, Nebraska manufacturing facility (where they make Case combines) and at the Fargo, North Dakota plant (Case IH Steiger tractors). To get all the details, visit the tours page on the Case IH website.

On the Road with Rachel: Michigan’s Largest Tractor Show

08/22/2016 by RG 2 Comments

Over the weekend I visited the Mid-Michigan Old Gas Tractor Association’s show in Oakley, Michigan. This show is the largest tractor show in Michigan.

All colors of tractors are welcome. Hundreds of tractors were on display. Here are a few highlights:

Everyone can appreciate a nice row of John Deere tractors–Dubuque built tractors as well as new generation tractors.

I think I saw more pulling tractors at this show than any other tractor show I’ve been to! I wish I could have seen more of them pull but due to my schedule I could only see a handful actually pull.

I can’t think of a single tractor brand that I didn’t see. Here are a few pictures of the less common brands:
Silver King

Eagle and Huber (commonly recognized Case and JD tractors between)

Shepard

John Blue

Chamberlain (a first for me)

A few people were droolling over this perfectly restored Farmall 400:

I had to chuckle at the exhaust on this tractor

and the ingenuity of the cab on this tractor.

It’s always fun to see harvesters like this mounted New Idea corn picker

and this combine in great original condition.

Shows are a great opportunity to also see the really old tractors operating, like this Rumley:

Below are a few more tractor pictures to enjoy:

If you’re looking for a new show to attend, be sure to add this show to your list next August!

6 Volt to 12 Volt Conversion FAQs

05/16/2016 by RG 18 Comments

From the Steiner Tech Support line: 6 Volt to 12 Volt Conversion FAQs

Here are some of the most frequent questions we get about 12 volt conversions here at Steiner Tractor Parts. If you’re thinking about making the switch, here are some good tips:

Why convert from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system? There are a few advantages to a 12 volt system – tractors that operate on 12 volts start faster and have brighter headlights. A 12 volt battery lasts longer than a 6 volt, and you can jump-start a 12 volt tractor with an ordinary vehicle. Switching to an alternator eliminates the need for a generator and voltage regulator, giving you a more reliable charging system.
Is it a difficult project? Making the conversion isn’t incredibly difficult, but it’s not a project for a beginner, either. I would rate it as a moderate difficulty. In addition to basic mechanical skills, you also need to know the basics of electrical wiring. If you have the tools and knowledge to change a light fixture in your home (including stripping wires and using stake-ons properly), you’re ready.
What parts do I need? A standard conversion will require an alternator, alternator bracket, battery, coil, wiring harness, and amp gauge. Replace the existing generator and voltage regulator with the alternator, and swap out the old battery, coil, wiring harness, and amp gauge with the new.
When doing a 12 volt conversion, do I need a 12 volt starter? In my opinion, no. While some starter shops will sell you a “specially wound 12 volt starter” in my opinion there’s no reason or a big enough difference to warrant this expense. Your original (or replacement) 6 volt starter will function well on a 12 volt system.
Do I have to change the wiring? Yes. Your old wiring will be set up for a field, an armature, voltage regulator, etc. Using these existing wires could be a fire hazard. Replace your wiring harness with a new one specific to your tractor to have a cleaner look and safer operation.
Do I need to change the coil? Yes. The 12 volt coil upgrade is very important. I’ve seen some people try to place a resistor in front of their 6 volt coil–not a good idea. The resistor won’t suffice.
When I do the 12 volt conversion, do I keep the voltage regulator? No. The voltage regulator needs to be removed when putting an alternator on.
Can I just install an 8 volt battery on my 6 volt system? Yes you can. No changes are required. Many people choose this option.

Do you have videos available? Yes I do! If you are converting a Farmall tractor, you’re in luck! Here’s a link to a video I made on a Farmall tractor. Even though the demonstration model is a Farmall, though, the basic techniques are similar across all makes and models. If you’re looking for help on a different tractor, give a shout in the comments! I’m always happy to hear video ideas.

Tractor Quiz

05/09/2016 by RG 4 Comments

Can you recognize these tractors (make and model) without their color or decal?

Give your answers in the comments below – and come back on Thursday for the results!
Tractor #1:

Tractor #2:

Tractor #3:

Tractor #4:

Tractor #5:

Tractor #6:

Tractor #7:

Tractor #8:

Tractor #9:

Tractor #10:

Do You Really Need a Manual?

05/02/2016 by RG 3 Comments

It’s a common question: “Do I really need to own a manual for my tractor?” After all, manuals aren’t free (most cost around $20), and with all the information available online these days it seems a little old-school to buy one. Besides, who wants to read the directions! It seems like a lot more fun to dive in and figure things out along the way.

You’ve probably heard these arguments against manuals before – you might even say these things yourself! If so, I hope to convince you otherwise. You really do need a manual (or three) to go along with your tractor.

First, let me explain the three different types of manuals – then I’ll (hopefully!) convince you to buy one.

A shop manual (also known as a service manual) is made for mechanics. Each dealer’s service department would have a copy of the shop manual, which gave the mechanics the details they need to make repairs. If you are doing a major repair or restoration project, get one of these! It’s where you’ll find all the specifications you need to prevent a costly mistake and keep your tractor running perfectly. If you can only buy one manual, get this one.

An owner’s manual (also known as an operator’s manual) was given to each original buyer with their tractor. This is the basic manual, not unlike the manual you probably keep in the glovebox of your car. It’s where you’ll find information about how to make basic adjustments and regular maintenance on your tractor.

A parts manual is really fun to look at! It shows how all the parts in your tractor fit together, and gives the original part numbers for every piece in your tractor. Not only will using a parts manual make you a pro at ordering replacement parts for your tractor, it’s a real help if you disassemble something and can’t quite remember how to put it back together.

So, do you really need to buy one? Well, here are three reasons why:

It’s hard to get this information somewhere else. I’m a huge fan of the internet, but not everything you read online is accurate and trustworthy – and some information just isn’t out there.
It’s faster to own a manual. Consider the amount of time it can take to search for and find the answers you need (either online or by calling the Steiner tech department). Save yourself the time and frustration by putting the answers right at your fingertips.
Mistakes can be costly. An incorrect guess on specs can be devastating to your tractor. Common mistake: over- or under-torquing a rod and having it pop through the side of your block.

My dad is an expert mechanic, and he has a whole wall of manuals. If our barn catches fire, that wall is what we’re running in to save (metaphorically speaking! Don’t run into a burning building, especially not one filled with gas and oil!) It’s the most important part of our shop.

If you are doing a repair on your tractor, lots of help is available for free on the internet (like my video tutorials). You can get even more help from the in-depth repair videos that my Dad makes. But nothing can replace the good old-fashioned manual.

Case Tractor Reunited with Family

04/06/2016 by ST 1 Comment

In 1963 My husbands father worked on a farm. My husband and his three sisters lived there, or so it seemed. They were put to work and as soon as their legs were long enough to reach the pedals they were on tractors operating them. More than once my husband, Russell Geyer III, was found asleep in the seat. How did they learn to drive them you may ask, well my husbands father put him on the tractor out in the field and said “you’ll get home when you figure it out”. For generations the Geyer family lived for farming. But the family tradition would be broken in the early 1980’s. The farm was sold, equipment was sold and divided among the eastern seaboard. The one tractor that the Geyer family favored was a 1963 Case 730, she was operated mainly by the Geyer men. the 730 was left on the farm. The family moved, jobs were switched, and the 730 was left abandoned. She may have been abandoned but never forgotten. In 2014, Russell Geyer III, found the current owner of the property and purchased the 730. She was found in the back with weeds taller than her frame, and a tree growing, coming up from between the rods. A very sad sight to see, but he wasn’t leaving without her. Surprisingly she was pulled onto the trailer quite easily even with a broken tie rod. She was meant to come HOME. She was stored in the shop and slowly broken down to assess the damage mother nature had taken on her. The heads were planed, and rebuilt, oil changed, points replaced, and fresh gas poured in. After a moment of silence, she roared to life. She still had along way to go but she was alive. We spent seven months of compiling parts from all over the United States she was ready to be put back together and restored to her glory days. After countless hours, late nights, and few pulled muscles, she was complete. My husband and I called his father and the previous partner at the farm to the house for her big reveal. It was a amazing sight to witness, three grown men physically in the present, but mentally they were in 1963 back on the farm. The three swapped stories of her pulling down trees no other tractor on the property could handle. She was a hard working tractor who deserved every cent. She was restored, but the few dents and blemishes were left. They tell her story, almost like badges of honor she had earned. After 20 years of memories with my husband and his childhood, she will take her place in our family with our two young daughters who are itching to find their way home in the seat of that old girl.

Jennifer Geyer
Houston, Delaware

On the Road with Rachel: New Paris, Indiana Auction

03/21/2016 by RG 1 Comment

I visited the Polk auction this past Thursday, March 17. My sister Hannah and I had a great day meeting fans, visiting with old friends, and seeing all the show-stopping tractors. In case you missed the sale, here are some highlights!
Let’s start with the John Deere tractors – the Polk Auction folks really know their John Deere tractors, and their auctions have a big following among JD enthusiasts. There was a huge variety of green and yellow tractors. Here’s a great line-up of New Generation tractors:

Did I mention that the sale was on St. Patrick’s Day? Anyone who forgot to wear green to the sale could just hop on one of these – there were plenty to go around! Check out this great lineup of 20-Series tractors.

This Cockshutt 1550 Diesel Standard was beautifully restored, and only had 5,000 hours.

We don’t have too many Massey Harris tractors in our area, so I was sure to snap a picture of this MH 22.

My dad used to own a Massey Ferguson dealer, so any Massey Ferguson tractor will catch my eye, including this sharp-looking Model 65 Diesel.

I love to see tractors with their implements. While this is common to see at shows, it’s uncommon at an auction since the tractors and implements are usually sold seperately. This Allis Chalmers WD-45 paired perfectly with the three bottom plow:

Also, this Ford 2000 with cultivators was a great pair:

This 1650 Oliver 4WD diesel was an attention-getter at the sale.

I noticed two Case VAH tractors on the property–here’s a snapshot of one of them.

This McCormick-Deering WA-40 (gas) was consigned from Missouri. It didn’t run but still sold for $6700.

There were a few Minneapolis-Moline tractors on the grounds, but this G1000 Wheatland was my favorite.

This Crawler had people “crawling” over it all day–it definitely stole the show. It’s a JD GPO that was converted to a crawler, meant to resemble the Lindeman crawlers.

Of all of the tractors at the auction, my all-time favorite was this Farmall HV. While definitely not the most expensive (It sold for $10,000), it would be the one I’d pick to follow me home if I could have.

The next auction I will attend is the Mecum Gone Farmin’ Auction in Davenport, Iowa. I hope to see some of you there!

6 Reasons to Pick a Favorite Tractor

02/29/2016 by RG Leave a Comment

Do you have a favorite antique tractor brand? If not, you should! Here are six reasons why brand loyalty matters:

Repairs are easier. Once you’ve worked on one model of your preferred brand, you’ll probably have an easier time working on other models from the same maker. Every company has their own way of doing things, and learning this system makes things a lot easier.
Learn from a local dealer. Even though many of our favorite brands are no longer producing new tractors, their old dealerships might still be around. If the major dealer in your hometown sold your preferred brand of tractors, you’re in luck! Make friends with the dealership owner or service manager for helpful tips and even (if you are extra lucky!) a source for rare literature. Soak up this knowledge while you can!
Scope out the salvage yards. If your favorite brand is popular in your area, you might be able to find old gems in fence-rows and salvage yards near your home. My dad has saved more than one rare tractor from the scrapyard this way. If you become known as the go-to collector of a certain brand in your area, you might start getting tips from salvage yards around town too!
Travel to fewer shows. This one might sound like a negative, but hear me out – I really like single-brand tractor shows. It seems like every major brand has one or two huge, national shows that draw the crowds. This is where the top-tier collectors bring out their very best. Compared to smaller, regional, all-color shows – well, the single-brand shows usually take the cake! If you want to see something really unique, picking a favorite and traveling to the biggest single-brand show is probably your best strategy.
In-depth knowledge about your preferred company. Let’s face it: our brains can only hold so much! Instead of knowing a few things about many brands, some people prefer to learn EVERYTHING they can about just one brand. These are the folks I call when I have a serious question about a certain tractor.
Everyone knows what to buy you as a gift. When your favorite colors are known to your family and friends, your birthday gets a whole lot easier!

How about you – are you brand loyal? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

How the Nebraska Tractor Tests Got Started

02/01/2016 by RG 3 Comments

Wilmot Croitzer bought a lemon. He’d been duped by a fast-talking salesman, and now found himself the owner of a broken-down Ford tractor. Croitzer thought he was purchasing a reliable tractor produced by Henry Ford and the Ford Motor Company. Instead, he’d purchased a tractor made by the fraudulent “Ford Tractor Co.” of Minneapolis, who hired a young man with the last name of Ford to sign off on their tractor designs.

When Croitzer’s tractor broke, he unraveled the truth. Not only did the tractor fail to live up to the manufacturer’s performance claims, he was unable to obtain parts or service anywhere. The company seemed to have vanished into thin air, taking Croitzer’s money with him.

Lucky for us, the Ford Tractor Co. ticked off the wrong farmer. Croitzer was no country bumpkin – in addition to farming, he was also a legislator in the Nebraska House of Representatives. After purchasing two “excuses for tractors,” he got to work on drafting a law that would “induce all tractor companies to tell the truth,” and the Nebraska Tractor Tests were born.

A colleague in the Nebraska State Senate, Charles Warner, had a similar story. Together, these two men championed legislation that would require all tractors sold in the state of Nebraska to undergo testing and receive approval from a panel of three engineers at the University of Nebraska. Tractor companies who wished to operate in the state would also be required to have a service station and an adequate supply of replacement parts located somewhere in the state as well. The law passed in 1919.

By 1920, the University of Nebraska was ready to begin tests. The first tractor tested was John Deere’s Waterloo Boy tractor, quickly followed by 68 more tractors tested that year.

The Nebraska Tests quickly developed an excellent reputation. They caught on around the world. Today, the University of Nebraska is at the forefront of the global Organization for Economic Co-Operation and Development, which coordinates tractor testing in 29 countries.

ISU Tractor Club Begins John Deere Project

01/26/2016 by ST Leave a Comment

I wanted to give you an update on the 1951 Case DC and what we have going on for this year’s project. The DC was sold online to a buyer in Wyoming, and was shipped earlier this fall. We were all a little sad to see it go but also happy it went to another tractor collector who can enjoy it. And everyone got a big kick from seeing the DC featured in your catalog this year.

Our project for this year is a 1935 John Deere Unstyled A, pictures below of the tractor and the progress we’ve made so far. So far everything’s gone smoothly, this tractor is much more simple than the DC was!

John Deere Project

I also wanted to say how thankful our club is to have Steiner as one of our biggest sponsors. We wouldn’t be nearly as successful as we have been without your help!

Thanks again!

Ben Link
Vice President of the ISU Antique Tractor Club
Agriculture/Industrial Systems Technology
Iowa State University

Three Ways to Save Money on a Used Tractor

01/25/2016 by RG 3 Comments

If you’re in the market for a used tractor, check out these tips to get a good deal.

Buy from a seller who doesn’t like your favorite brand. I’m partial to Ford tractors, and I often buy them at great prices from a seller who loves John Deere (and nothing else). When he takes in a Ford on trade, he doesn’t pay much money for it and is eager to see it gone. This is great news for me! He gives me a great deal every time, and I don’t bother trying to convince him that Ford tractors have their strong points.
Get a package deal. If you can’t come to an agreement on the price, try asking about an add-on. Sellers might be able to throw in something else (like a blade or plow) that would make the package a good deal. At a dealer, you might be able to negotiate package deal for a used tractor plus needed tune-up or overhaul work. If you are using this as a negotiating tactic, be sure that whatever you accept is something that actually adds value to the machine. Don’t fall for gimmicks.
Buy in the off-season. The worst time to buy a tractor is when you are desperate for one. Instead of waiting for your old tractor to give out in the middle of spring planting, do your shopping now. Dealers are slow this time of year and might be ready to give you a good deal. You can take your time to shop around, too. Just be sure that the cold doesn’t keep you from conducting a thorough inspection.

How about you – what are your best tips for getting a good price on a used tractor? Share in the comments below.

Half off our 2016 Tractor Calendar

01/22/2016 by ST Leave a Comment

Keep yourself organized with our 2nd edition 12 month calendar.
•   You will have plenty of room to add appointments for you and tune-up reminders for your tractor.
•   Save with exclusive monthly coupons printed inside the calendar.
•   Features full-size quality pictures for each tractor submitted by folks just like you!
•   50% off! Regular price – Now only $2.50 each while supplies last

Buy yours today!

Seized Tractor Engine? Here’s How You Can Get it Free

01/18/2016 by RG 21 Comments

It’s not uncommon for a tractor that has been sitting a while to become stuck. If your tractor’s engine is stuck from sitting, there’s a good chance you’ll be able to free the engine without resorting to an extensive overhaul (a tractor that becomes seized while running or is seized from running out of oil is a different story).

While there are a few different methods for freeing a stuck (or seized) engine, here’s our favorite.

First, pour a high-quality penetrating oil down the cylinders (through the spark plug holes). Use up the entire can, dividing it between each cylinder. Let it sit overnight.

The next day, remove the starter to expose the teeth on the flywheel. Place a large bar in the flywheel and gently rock back and forth to loosen. If this doesn’t work – or if you are uncomfortable with placing a pry bar in the flywheel – try putting the tractor in a high gear and rocking the rear tires back and forth.

Once the flywheel is loosened, do a quick tune-up on the carburetor. Re-insert the starter and spark plugs, put in fresh gas, and start the tractor up!

There’s a risk with this method. Pry too hard, and you could break the teeth off the flywheel. However, I think it’s worth the risk. The way I look at it, if you tractor is stuck you are already in trouble. Your chances are pretty good of successfully freeing the motor with this method.
If this method doesn’t work, we decide to overhaul the tractor before we break/bend a rod or do more damage trying to free it.

Northern Michigan Antique Flywheelers Show Video

01/16/2016 by ST Leave a Comment

Our very own mother-daughter team, Suzette and Rebecca Thomas traveled thousands of miles in 2015 visiting various tractor shows in the Midwest.

Brush off the winter cold with a summer tractor show at SteinerTractor.TV where Suzette shares her footage from the 28th Annual Northern Michigan Antique Flywheelers Show.

Enjoy everything the show had to offer – basket making, blacksmiths, parades, music, equipment demonstrations and more! Start watching today >>

Tractor Snowplowing Tips

01/13/2016 by ST 3 Comments

Using your tractor to move snow this season? Check out these tips.

Power Up: Most small lawn tractors aren’t a good choice for plowing or blowing snow. Their transmissions aren’t strong enough to handle the strain of a wet, sticky snow. Unless you have a high-quality lawn tractor, you’ll want to upgrade to something more substantial. My favorite tractors for plowing snow are the Farmall Cub and the Farmall A.

Get a good blade. Many old tractors here in the midwest have front blades – either factory originals or homemade ones that replace a loader bucket. I far prefer plowing with a front blade, but a rear blade can get the job done, too. Either way, pay attention to the angle of your blade. It’s often useful to angle to one side or the other while clearing large areas, and then straighten the blade to clean up and push snow into banks.

Accessorize. Winter is a great time of year to accessorize your tractor – those tire chains and weights come in handy!

Push it clear. Be prepared for your snow pile to stay around for a while. Push banks further away than necessary in order to allow for more pile-up as the season progresses.

Height Matters. Set your blade to the right height off the ground. This is especially important if the ground isn’t frozen – too deep, and you can dig up half the gravel on your driveway. Some blades come with guards (shoes) on the corners that keep you from digging in too deeply.

Take it Slow. Especially in heavy, wet snow, you’ll need to take your time plowing. Don’t push your tractor too quickly. If the snow is deep, it’s probably better to take multiple passes (lowering your blade each time) rather than trying to get all the snow cleared in one push.

Protect your Transmission. Plowing can be hard on your tractor – particularly the transmission. You can help prevent damage by coming to complete stop before shifting from forward to reverse. Accelerate slowly, and don’t ride the clutch. Change your transmission fluid periodically.

Be visible. Plow snow in daylight hours. If you must use your tractor to plow after dark, use your headlights and be aware of your surroundings. Never plow after dark without working headlights.

Bundle Up. Take care to dress for the weather. Layers are your friend – particularly if you’ll be stepping off your tractor to shovel. A seat cushion can make a big difference. If you don’t have one, bring along an old towel to cover the bare metal seat.

Be Generous. Snowplowing can be a great way to show kindness to your neighbors. Pay particular attention to the elderly and single women in your neighborhood – they might benefit from some extra help.

1948 Case SC

01/06/2016 by ST 2 Comments

1948 Case SC that I bought about 15 years ago from a neighboor in the intent to restore it some day to use for blowing the snow out of my driveway (because of the back hydraulics and eagle hitch) which I never got to do until last year with the help of my dad, friends and family who helped me restore it. Special thanks to all of them as I couldn’t of done it without them.

Eric Joly
Hammond, Ontario Canada

What kind of radiator cap do I need?

11/02/2015 by RG 3 Comments

Believe it or not, but one of the biggest returns here at Steiner Tractor Parts is radiator caps. There are a few different styles of radiator caps, and radiators get replaced so frequently that it can be difficult to know exactly what you should be asking for.

When you are ordering a new radiator cap, here’s what you need to know.

1. Does your tractor have the original radiator? Radiators can be interchangeable. Just because you have a Ford 9N doesn’t mean it has the original or correct radiator on it. In fact, chances are good it’s been swapped over the years for a radiator from a Ford 8N – which uses a different radiator cap. This applies to all models of tractors, but we see swaps from the original most often on Ford and Farmall tractors.

2. Is your radiator pressurized? A non-pressurized cap is flat on the underside, and a pressurized one will have a flap to create a seal. Because pressurized systems tend to circulate the water better, it’s not uncommon for a tractor that would originally have a non-pressurized system to get an “upgrade” to a pressurized system over the years. The underside of the cap can be a good initial clue into what you’re working with.

3. How does the cap connect to the neck of your radiator? Some radiator necks have a jaw that the cap grabs onto and seals tight (common in pressurized systems). Other types are held on but not locked on, with an ear that can let the pressure release.

4. If the cap is pressurized, how much pressure? There’s a difference between a cap that will hold 4 pounds of pressure and a cap designed for 6 pounds.

A simple awareness of these things can often go a long way in helping you order the right replacement for your radiator cap. If you’re still unsure, though, let the folks at Steiner know when you place your order. They’ll help you double-check to be sure you’re getting the right part.

Mecum Gone Farmin’ and Steiner Tractor Parts

10/29/2015 by ST Leave a Comment

We will be joining our Mecum Auctions friends at their Iowa Premier Gone Farmin’ Tractor Auction in Davenport, Iowa on Friday, November 6, 2015 through Saturday, November 7, 2015.

Come and see us at the Mississippi Valley Fair Center! We will be on hand with our free 2015 print catalogs and tractor repair tutorial DVDs. Be the first to stop at our booth and receive a free orange and camouflage Steiner hat. Limited supply, one per attendee. Check out auction details. See you at the auction!

Tractor Pictures from our friend Ron

09/09/2015 by ST 2 Comments

These pictures were compliments of our friend Ron Haling in Australia. Thanks Ron !

The ‘Red Tractors’ with me on board are as follows:
Nearest IH W4 1953 Model
Next 1947 Farmall Super A
Next 1953 Farmall Cub

The Orange Tractor
This is a CASE VA 1947 Model that I had restored and is pictured here at
Rotary Club Classic Car Show in Australia that I was invited to attend. Below is the Case before restoration.

Case VA -left side

Case VA – right side

Case VA – back

Case VA – Gauges

Case VA – front side

How to Determine Your Tractor’s Value

08/24/2015 by RG 21 Comments

How much is this tractor worth? It’s a question I’m asked a lot. Determining the value of an antique tractor can be a tricky thing, especially if the tractor is rare or in an unusual condition. Whether you want to sell your tractor, insure it, or are just plain curious, these tips can help you determine the tractor’s value.

My prefered method to determine a tractor’s value is to see what similar tractors have sold for in the area. You can find recent selling prices by looking at:

Auction results. Many auction companies will publish the results of their auction sales. In my opinion, this is the absolute best way to determine fair market value.
Ebay. Don’t just look through the current “for sale” ads, though – that will tell you what people are asking for their tractors, but not what they are selling for. Instead, use an advanced search option (in the left menu bar) to search only for the sold listings.
Classified ad websites like Craigslist or Tractorhouse.com. These contain listings from many areas, but you’ll need to use caution. The sites will give an idea of what people are asking for, but some sellers ask for unrealistic amounts. Balance these findings with the more reliable results from auction sales and sold listings on Ebay.

If your tractor is rather common, these methods can usually give you a good picture of your tractor’s value. Just be sure that you account for your tractor’s condition (which could be better or worse than the comparable ones you find) and your location – prices can vary across the nation.

If you don’t find good results from online listings, though, there are some more options to consider:

A tractor value book (commonly called a Blue Book) will probably have your model listed. You may be able to get one from your local library, or you can buy a copy for yourself. Just be sure the book is rather recent – prices can change a lot over the years.
Get a professional appraisal. This is particularly useful if you want to insure or donate (and claim a tax deduction for) your tractor.

But perhaps you have a really special tractor – something very rare. If you can’t find sale results and your model isn’t listed in a tractor value book, you’ll have to make an educated guess on the value of your tractor. You may be able to consult collectors’ books to determine how many of your model tractor were manufactured (fewer built = higher value). Then, you might be able to find out what equally rare models of tractor from that same brand have sold for, which can give good insight into the market. When in doubt,sell it at a national collectors’ auction.