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Improve your visibility on the road or in the field

Our tough, new LED lamps provide additional lighting without overloading your existing electrical system. ABC3696 and IHS3698 work on both 6-volt and 12-volt applications. ABC3696 fits FDS177, FDS192, FDS193 and FDS213 housings.  IHS3698 fits our IHS463 lights. These sealed beam lamps are also designed to fit the OEM lights. View our website for a full list of applications.

  • Draws less amps than the original light
  • Scratch resistant lens
  • Rated at 50,000 hours lifetime
  • Lamps have a heavy die cast body with integral heat sink fins
  • Provides a brighter, whiter light to enhance visibility and safety

Tips for Wiring Your Tractor


I just finished up a massive re-wiring project on this New Holland tractor. Mice had burrowed their way under the hood and gnawed at the wires. What a mess! Along the way to fixing this tractor up, I learned a lot about wiring problems from my Dad (in addition to being a great mechanic, he’s also a licensed electrician. Winning combo!). Here are some of our best tips for tractor electrical work:

1. When you’re installing a new harness, no need to start from scratch: firmly tape the new wires to the old wires, and pull through the loom. Voila! No need to thread individual wires through tight spots.
2. Some harnesses come with additional wire that you might not use. That’s okay – but be sure to seal off unused wires properly. Cut the wire flush, then put same tape or a wire nut over the end.
3. In the same way that you wouldn’t change the oil in your car without also replacing the filter, you should change your battery cables when you replace the harness. Battery cables need to be clean and in good condition.

4. If the wires are stiff, try putting a little bit of dish soap on the wires to help them slide through easier.

There you have it! These are my best tips for tractor electrical work. How about you – do you know any (safe!) shortcuts or tricks to make these difficult jobs go a little easier? If so, share in the comments below.

Horsepower Myths

Here are two common myths about how to increase the horsepower on any tractor:

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Myth #1: A hotter coil will increase your horsepower.

Some people think that a more powerful coil (sometimes sold as a “Flame Thrower” coil) will increase their horsepower with a hotter spark. This isn’t the case. Let me explain, starting with the basics:

Engines are, at their most basic, controlled explosion machines. Fuel fills the combustion chamber and is ignited by the spark. The force of this explosion moves the pistons, the pistons move the crankshaft, and so on.

More fuel will make a difference in the amount of output, since more fuel means a bigger (more powerful) explosion. A bigger or more powerful spark, however, won’t make the explosion bigger or more powerful.

A standard tractor coil spits off around 20,000 volts. This is more than enough spark to fire your cylinders (probably around 2 times more than you need). Excess voltage just turns to heat.

I suppose that if your tractor’s inner workings had eroded to the point where the gap was larger, it would indeed take more voltage to jump the gap and make spark. This is why standard coils are already over-engineered with excess voltage, giving around 2x as much as you need. If 2x the voltage doesn’t have you firing on all cylinders, you’ve got a problem… and a hotter coil isn’t a good solution. Try a tune-up instead!

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Myth #2: An electronic ignition will increase your horsepower.

There are advantages to an electronic ignition, but increased horsepower isn’t one of them.

It’s the same basic concept – spark is spark, and more of it won’t change the fuel explosion equation.


Magneto vs. Distributor

Magneto-or-distributorWhen you are troubleshooting electrical or ignition problems on your tractor, one of the first things that you need to know is where the power for your tractor is coming from – either a magneto or a distributor. Since many tractors have been converted from magnetos to distributors, you can’t necessarily rely on the year and model of your tractor to know which one you have. Understanding the basics behind the two systems can help you get the right replacement parts and decide if it’s worthwhile to make a conversion from one to the other.
First, a review. All gas-powered engines need two things to run: gas and spark. To simplify, the spark (electricity) fires the spark plugs in rhythm, igniting the gas in the combustion chamber.
That spark has to come from somewhere – either a stored electricity source (a battery) or a constantly-running electricity source (a generator).
When tractors were first invented, batteries weren’t a part of the picture. Instead, operators hand-cranked a sort of generator inside the tractor. This generator, called a magneto, would then supply electricity for the tractor as long as it was running. Magneto technology has been around for a long time – the little crank you’d turn on an old-fashioned telephone was a magneto, too.
A well-designed magneto can generate plenty of spark, and they are a reliable way to run a tractor. Magnetos have also been (historically, at least) easier to come by than battery-powered systems. During World War 2, even tractors that were normally produced with a battery/distributor combo switched back to magneto technology due to shortages.
Battery-powered systems have their advantages, though. While a well-maintained hand-crank starting system can work very well, nothing beats the convenience of an electric start. Battery-powered systems also have the extra power available to run headlights. In a battery-powered system, a separate distributor moves the electricity from the battery to the engine. An alternator is also necessary to re-charge the battery.
Now, here’s where it gets tricky. Did you notice that I wrote that a battery-powered system has a SEPARATE distributor? That’s because a magneto still has a distributor cap and wires, which sends the power to the individual spark plugs. This is different from the distributor on a battery-powered system, which is a separate part of the tractor.
So – should you switch from a magneto to a distributor, or a distributor to a magneto? Making a switch will most likely involve an entire re-wiring of your tractor. It’s not overly difficult to do so, but it will take time and parts.
Which do you prefer on your antique tractor–a magneto or a distributor? Comment below.

Original Stock Glow Plug for John Deere Tractors

New Parts for your John Deere Tractor


Keep your John Deere 1010 (SN: 31001 & up), 2010 (SN: 29001 & up) tractor / crawler starting with our new, original old stock JDS3257 OEM Bosch© glow plugs. Made in Germany, these are the same glow plugs that John Deere used when they built these tractors! Check thread size before ordering as early serial numbers used a larger thread and wrench size. 4 are used per tractor; Sold individually. View details >>


Switches for your International Tractor


Save money when replacing your defective switches with OEM original equipment switches. Our IHS3234 12-volt 4-position rotary light switch (86 & 88 series, Late 140, 384, 385, Late 464, 484, Late 574, 584, Late 674, 784, 884; Hydro 84, 86, 186) includes a knob and plugs directly into the original wiring harness for a no hassle installation. Be safe and ensure your tractor starts when you need it with our ABC3208 neutral starter switch. This switch includes a rubber boot to protect the plunger, 2 spade terminals and fits IH O6, 56, 66 series (706 – 1568), Late Cub, Late 140, 154, 185, 385, Late 484, Late 485, 544, Late 584, Late 585, 664, Late 684, Late 685; Hydro 70, 86, 100, 186; Late Hydro 84; JD 2010, 3010, 4010. View details>>