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Hydraulic Oil Filters

Improve the hydraulics on your tractor!

Improve the hydraulics on your tractor with our new line of hydraulic filters made off the OEM micro-screen design.

Both the IHS3491 and IHS3537 include the mounting gasket. The IHS3491 is designed for tractors with and without the IHS525 touch control temperature gauge and includes a plug for tractors that do not utilize the gauge. Give your hydraulic pump a break and install one of our new filters!

Watch our Touch Control Hydraulic Repair video on SteinerTractor.TV

Quality is in the details

We are committed to constant and never ending improvements. This goal is exemplified by our retooling of two of our IHC Farmall manifolds, IHS002C and IHS003B. IHS002C  fits Farmall H, Super H, 300 and 350 tractors. IHS003B fits Farmall M, Super M, 400 and 450 manifolds.

Both manifolds must be made to exacting standards in order for the governor linkage to align properly as it is connected to the carburetor. The carburetor position is determined by the alignment of the manifold which must be in the correct X, Y and Z axes. Our factory is using custom checking fixtures which our engineering department designed. And we randomly check samples from production on engines blocks to ensure that the quality control department at the machine shop is doing a good job.

Our new IHS003B is reverse engineered off of a late Farmall M manifold. The early Farmall M was introduced in 1939 when octane ratings for gasoline were about ½ of today’s ratings. By the 1950s refineries began focusing on innovations which improved octane ratings. As a result the early boxy Farmall M manifold which was designed to allow the exhaust gas to heat the intake manifold by means of a heat exchange was largely eliminated.

Steiner is pleased to be the only company that offers the late style Farmall M gas manifold that is appropriate for modern day fuel octane ratings. We are also the only company that also offers the propane manifold, IHS659, which is even more efficient with modern gasoline.

Both of our new manifolds feature a very smooth surface which is the result of our use of modern steel tooling. Older molds for castings utilized wood tooling which lead to a rougher more uneven surface. While a rough surface may be more original, most collectors prefer the more professional look of our new manifolds.

John Deere 2010 Review

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The John Deere New Generation line (beginning with the 2010 and its sister models) was truly revolutionary. It represented the first modern, four-cylinder tractors the John Deere company had ever manufactured. Many tractors in this line turned out to be incredibly reliable and are still in use today – most notably, the 4020 John Deere. However, a few losses came alongside the victory. In my opinion, the 2010 is a tractor to steer clear of.

The 2010 was a huge advance for its time. The Deere company tried out lots of new strategies with the New Generation line, and the 2010 included a new engine design. The engine had an inventive deck plate to hold the sleeves in. The deck plate rested directly on top of the sleeves, using some O rings to make a seal.

This is another one of those ideas that sounds great on paper but doesn’t work as well in the field. As the tractor is used during the day – especially if it is turned off and on frequently – the engine naturally expands and contracts. The all-in-one design of the deck plate makes this tiny amount of expansion and contraction a big problem. The O rings aren’t enough to maintain a seal.

In addition to the engine difficulties, the model is also susceptible to a wide variety of PTO problems.

John Deere abandoned the deck plate idea when this model’s production was through. After the 2010, no additional models were made with deck plates. This is great news for the reliability of other tractors in the New Generation line, but it’s bad news for owners of these tractors. A low demand for parts means that parts are difficult to find and expensive.

The 2010 was a huge advance for the time. Nostalgia is strong with these tractors, too. For many farmers, the 2010 was the first modern tractor they owned. The live power, live hydraulics, and ergonomic design were game-changers for the industry. Restoring one can be a real labor of love – just know what you are getting into!

Get the job done

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Our premium carburetor kits for the IH/Farmall tractors are now available. The IHS3164 (H, I4, O4, W4), IHS3319, IHS3323 (M, 6 series), IHS3328 (Super H, Super W4), IHS3332 (Super M, Super W6) include most internal components for repair including the graphite packing. The float is not included. Get your kit today! View details >>

What kind of radiator cap do I need?

Radiator-Caps

Believe it or not, but one of the biggest returns here at Steiner Tractor Parts is radiator caps. There are a few different styles of radiator caps, and radiators get replaced so frequently that it can be difficult to know exactly what you should be asking for.

When you are ordering a new radiator cap, here’s what you need to know.

1. Does your tractor have the original radiator? Radiators can be interchangeable. Just because you have a Ford 9N doesn’t mean it has the original or correct radiator on it. In fact, chances are good it’s been swapped over the years for a radiator from a Ford 8N – which uses a different radiator cap. This applies to all models of tractors, but we see swaps from the original most often on Ford and Farmall tractors.

2. Is your radiator pressurized? A non-pressurized cap is flat on the underside, and a pressurized one will have a flap to create a seal. Because pressurized systems tend to circulate the water better, it’s not uncommon for a tractor that would originally have a non-pressurized system to get an “upgrade” to a pressurized system over the years. The underside of the cap can be a good initial clue into what you’re working with.

3. How does the cap connect to the neck of your radiator? Some radiator necks have a jaw that the cap grabs onto and seals tight (common in pressurized systems). Other types are held on but not locked on, with an ear that can let the pressure release.

4. If the cap is pressurized, how much pressure? There’s a difference between a cap that will hold 4 pounds of pressure and a cap designed for 6 pounds.

A simple awareness of these things can often go a long way in helping you order the right replacement for your radiator cap. If you’re still unsure, though, let the folks at Steiner know when you place your order. They’ll help you double-check to be sure you’re getting the right part.

Ford Tractor Valve and Gasket Replacement

Ford Valve & Gasket Replacement

Does your tractor have low compression on one of the cylinders? Watch this free instructional video demonstrating a valve job and head gasket replacement on a Ford 134 cubic inch engine. In this newest series of tractor repair videos offered exclusively online at SteinerTractor.TV Rachel takes you step by step to remove and install new seats and valves and sahres many tips along the way! Start watching today >>

How to properly identify your carburetor?

Carburetor Identification VideoAre you planning a carburetor repair soon? Learn how to find the correct identification number on your carburetor before you order the parts and repair kit. This is absolutely necessary! So watch this free instructional video to save yourself time and frustration. In this newest series of tractor repair videos offered exclusively online at SteinerTractor.TV Rachel Gingell shares helpful tips while she reviews many common carburetors and their tags or casting numbers. Start watching today >>

Tips for Starting a Tractor in Cold Weather

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When the temperature drops, getting an old tractor to start is harder than ever. Cold snaps can also be when you need your tractor the most, and have the least patience for engine trouble. Here at home, we use a Farmall M to haul firewood, a John Deere 520 to blade the driveway, and a Ford 5000 to run our generator when we’re out of power. We depend on these old tractors, and sometimes they need a little TLC to get running when it’s below zero.

Here are three tips for getting your old iron running, even in the cold:

  1. Make sure your battery is fully charged. Cold batteries don’t work as efficiently as warm ones, so you need all the juice you can get! You can also warm the battery up to room temperature inside, then take it out to the tractor when you’re ready to get to work.
  2. Warm the engine – a block heater is ideal, but an electric dipstick and/or a magnet heat pad for the oil pan can do the trick, too. You’ll be most successful with this method if your tractor is in the barn (and sheltered from the wind) to begin with, and it can be helpful to drape an old blanket or canvas drop-cloth over your tractor as insulation.
  3. When all else fails, a small amount of ether can often start your engine. While ether is controversial and certainly not ideal, sometimes it’s absolutely essential. We find that cheaper starting fluid does less damage (because it contains less of the active ingredient, ether). Used sparingly, a can of starting fluid is a valuable part of my cold-weather toolbox. .


Give these tips a try next time you need to start an antique tractor in cold weather. And let’s all hope that spring will come soon! Photo - vasicek2crazy4u@aol_com - 784029

Treat your Cub to a shiny new muffler

IHS1936-sideDoes your Cub have bling? It will if you order one of our new IHS1936 stainless steel mufflers. Manufactured with 16 gauge 304 stainless steel and baffled like original, your tractor will look great and sound great as well. Order today >>