There has been some confusion about how to hook up the oil line on a dash mounted oil pressure gauge. Sometimes you can reuse your fitting from the rear of your gauge. Otherwise, you need an adaptor fitting for some gauges.
Here is a list of oil pressure gauges that require an adaptor fitting: ABC004, ABC005, ABC082, ACS160, ACS262, CKS075, CKS1642, FDS401, FDS405, IHS452, IHS454, IHS502, IHS1666, IHS1871, JDS419, JDS423, JDS1702, MMS029R, MMS029RC, OLS082, OLS122
All of the above gauges are shipped with a 1/8” male pipe thread to hook up the oil line. You will need to either RE– USE the old adaptor or purchase one of our new adaptors.
Either of these adaptors will fit the line to the gauge, make sure you choose the correct one.
ABC538 Oil Gauge Fitting is for 1/8” diameter oil line.
IHS626 Oil Gauge Fitting is for 1/4” diameter oil line.
Hope this helps you when replacing your oil pressure gauge on your antique tractor restoration project.
If your tractor is missing the lighter, as many are, look no further! Our newest restoration quality cigarette lighter is now available. The IHS1784 cigarette lighter will fit International 154 thru 574, 606 thru 1586, 3088 thru 7488, Hydro 70 thru 186, and Cub Cadet 71 thru 127. Shop at www.SteinerTractor.com >>
The print catalog is great. We are very proud of the work we’ve done on our catalog and we know that our customers love to have one in hand. However, space is limited in the catalog, but unlimited online. In many instances we’ve added additional measurements and dimensions to our website that aren’t found in the catalog. In addition, many times, we spell out the various tractors that a product fits whereas in the catalog, we have to abbreviate and list year ranges etc. So, if you find yourself wishing for more information on a part you are looking at in our catalog, we have a few recommendations.
- Search our site by part number – In most cases this will land you directly at the product detail page. If you are taken to the search results page, you may see information in other tabs, under General or Social or Video. Take a moment and look at those other tabs, sometimes we will have additional information or details on a part on our blog or in a helpful how to document.
- Once you are on the product detail page, make sure to read through all of the information. When available, at the bottom of the description, there will be a link to some additional information or to a diagram. Sometimes the diagrams will contain more detailed measurement information (particularly true in the case of seat components and carburetor floats).
- If you still aren’t seeing the measurements that you need to determine if a tractor part will fit your machine, then send an email to our customer service department. We’ll see if we can get the appropriate measurements and then we’ll list them on our site to help out future customers.
This is my 1950 Allis Chalmers model B that my friend and i built this past winter.
I had restored a 1938 Allis B and I needed to try something a little different, being a autobody person by trade this is what I came up with using Steiner's restoration parts, like the WD fenders that were fitted to this tractor. I would like to thank Rich (aka Woody) for his help and the b/s that came with it. I used PPG paint DCC single stage system.
Glen Spey, New York
Thank you Robert for your pictures and story!
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I am sending you a picture of my dads and our John Deere 40U tractor and thank you for all your help in supplying the parts I needed for it. We stripped it all down and sandblasted all the parts and painted them, then reassembled them. We started in the Fall and had it done by June for show. We are only using it for show and parades.
This tractor was sold new in Delia a small town West of Hanna, to Henry Ouaschnick. Then sold by auction to Clarnece Shandera, then to my Grand-daddy, his son, my cousin, then my Dad Frank VanEaton. We have a shop in Hanna for our own use. Dad was a heavy duty mechanic with the government and is retired. He grew up on a farm and his Dad had John Deere tractors which were 1927 & 1928 that they farmed with before he left home. I hope you show this picture to your staff and thanks again.
Keith thank you for sharing your story. We are happy to share your story with our staff and all of readers. Congratulations on a project well done.
Share you tractor story with us by emailing your story along with pictures to email@example.com or by mail at Steiner Tractor Parts, ATTN: Suzette, 1660 S. M-13, Lennon, MI 48449
Here are some tips on installing a water pump from our Technical Department. Hope these help with your next restoration project.
1) Before installing verify that you have the correct water pump, as there can be different variations made for your tractor.
2) If the engine is hot, let it cool down and drain the coolant from the radiator and block.
3) Disconnect and inspect all of the hoses. If cracked or damaged, replace the hoses.
4) Remove fan blade and pulley if possible. Take care not to damage the radiator. On some models, you must leave the fan assembled while the water pump is on the engine.
5) Remove the old water pump making note of any special length bolt locations. Check the bolts if they are badly corroded clean or replace them.
6) With the pump off, clean any sediment and scale from the impeller cavity in the block or head.
7) Run a thread chaser through the water pump mounting holes in the block or head.
8) Remove all gasket material from pump mounting surfaces.
9) If the water pump is equipped with a steel backing plate covering the impeller, check all the mounting screws and bolts to verify that they are tight. If the pump doesn’t include a plate, take off the old pump plate, clean it and add a new gasket and install it on the new pump. If the fan and pulley can be installed as an assembly with the pump, bolt the fan and pulley on now.
10) Coat the gasket with a “tacky” sealant and position on the pump. If using a silicone style sealant, do not apply an excessive amount as when compressed it could clog up the water passage.
11) Install new pump on the block or head. DO NOT FORCE PUMP! If the pump doesn’t seem to fit, you may not have the impeller opening completely cleaned of rust or scale in the block or head.
12) Tighten the mounting bolts gradually and evenly in a staggered sequence to the engine manufacturer’s specifications. These specifications are usually included in an I&T Shop Service manual for your model.
13) Reinstall the fan and pulley on the pump (unless it is easier to install the fan with the pump initially). Adjust the belt to the factory tension. Install the hoses and clamps.
14) Tighten the drain plugs and fill the radiator with coolant. Check for any leaks.
15) Install the radiator cap and run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Check for water circulation and leaks. Remember: NEVER remove a radiator cap when the engine is hot!
16) Allow the engine to cool down. Remove the radiator cap and top off coolant.
BONUS: Prolong the life of your new water pump by verifying the following!
A) Check your fan blade and replace it if it is bent, cracked, has loose rivets or broken welds. Imbalance in the fan can cause excessive load on the water pump bearing and seal.
B) Never adjust a fan belt tighter than factory specifications.
C) Inspect the radiator cap. If it looks corroded, it is wise to purchase a new one. If your system is pressurized, a defective cap can cause excessive pressure and damage to the pump seal.
Good luck with your next water pump repair!
Our measurements are compiled by using a belt length gauge used by most auto parts stores. The gauge gives the actual length of the belt. Belt measurements can differ per manufacturer.
Even OEM belts do not match the aftermarket measurements. For example our IHS134 had three variations in length.
It’s always best to measure the old belt on a belt length gauge before ordering a new belt due to all the variations.